High-Water at Hammerschmidt Falls // Buffalo National River, Arkansas

High-Water at Hammerschmidt Falls

Buffalo National River, Arkansas

Hammerschmidt Falls    Prints available

Hammerschmidt Falls Prints available

I've been to Hammerschmidt Falls (named after John Paul Hammerschmidt, an Arkansas Congressman who played a HUGE role in getting the Buffalo River designated as America's first National River!) countless times over the years. It's an easy hike (roughly one-mile roundtrip) and often seems like a good option for a lazy day hike. The thing is that the falls (located on the upper-most section of the Indian Creek Drainage at high elevation) take a considerable amount of rainfall to get Hammerschmidt flowing to its full potential. I'm talking multiple inches of rainfall over a twenty-four-hour timespan kind of considerable rainfall, the type of rain that puts the Buffalo National River into flood stage.

On Saturday, after days of light rainfall, I went out to the falls with a couple of friends to see how it was flowing. It looked the same as usual, one shoot of water pouring off the left side of a jagged point in the middle of the falls (still beautiful but not what I was hoping for). That evening and into Sunday morning, about two inches of rain fell around the Ponca area sending the Buffalo River into flood stage, and I hoped this was my chance to see the 43' Hammerschmidt Falls in all its glory.

Below is a comparison of the flow at Hammerschmidt before and after a couple of inches of rain:

Hammerschmidt Falls after days of light rain w/ Justin for scale.

Hammerschmidt Falls after days of light rain w/ Justin for scale.

Hammerschmidt Falls after an evening of flooding rains w/ Tyler for scale.

Hammerschmidt Falls after an evening of flooding rains w/ Tyler for scale.

Sunday morning, we parked at the top of the road to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, next to the $5.00 firewood stacks, crossed HWY 74, and started down the muddy road across from where we parked.

$5.00 firewood at the entrance to Horseshoe Canyon

$5.00 firewood at the entrance to Horseshoe Canyon

I'm sure some people have vehicles capable of driving this road, but it's a muddy, rutted mess, and I would suggest not attempting to take a car down it. The hike is short enough as it is. We scrambled around the muddy puddles filled with the overflow from the private pond that sat next to the old road, made our way down along the red clay gravel, exited the forest into an opening, clear-cut for the power lines overhead, and then back into the woods.

The creek that feeds Hammerschmidt was running over the old road. It was higher than I had ever seen it flowing over the road, which made me extremely excited for what we would see just 100 yards downstream (the road continues into the forest, but to reach the falls, you'll turn left instead of crossing the stream and follow the drainage downstream).

High flow along the stream that feeds Hammerscmidt Falls

High flow along the stream that feeds Hammerscmidt Falls

The well worn trail down to Hammerschmidt Falls flowing with overflow from nearby stream.

The well worn trail down to Hammerschmidt Falls flowing with overflow from nearby stream.

The little well-worn trail that hikers have beaten next to the creek was a stream in its own right, and I splashed quickly through it, only pausing to keep my balance along the slick rocks scattered around the top of the falls. Hammerschmidt was roaring, and as I made my way to the left of the falls (to get to a steep but accessible way to get to the bottom of the falls), I could see the full white veil of Hammerschmidt falling through the thick shroud of dark green late spring leaves….it was flowing just as I had hoped it would be!

The white veil of Hammerschmidt falling through a shroud of dark green late spring leaves

The white veil of Hammerschmidt falling through a shroud of dark green late spring leaves

The cascades above Hammerscmidt Falls are beautiful in their own right.

The cascades above Hammerscmidt Falls are beautiful in their own right.

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The Basics

Difficulty: Easy Length: 1-Mile-ish Roundtrip Elevation: 150 Feet

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Mystic Caverns // Arkansas Scenic 7 Byway

MYSTIC CAVERNS

Arkansas Scenic 7 Byway

The Ozarks are karst and riddled with caves and sinkholes, but nearly all entrances to these underground ecosystems are closed these days to protect the bat populations from white-nose syndrome. Thankfully there are still a handful of commercial caves in operation that allow visitors to see the hidden wonders of the Ozark Mountains. Mystic Caverns is one of these commercial caves. It is a family-owned operation that gives visitors the opportunity to view two different caverns (Mystic Cavern and Crystal Dome). These caves feature classic formations like stalagmites, stalactites, flowstone, and columns and rare calcite formations such as helictites, shields, and spherical stalactites.

My family came to visit me during the heat of summer, so I took them to Mystic Caverns for a great (cool) family activity. Here are some images from Mystic Cavern and Crystal Dome:

Old River Trail // Buffalo National River, Arkansas

OLD RIVER TRAIL

BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER, ARKANSAS

The Old River Trail, stretching for a little over 13 miles, winds its way through the picturesque bottomlands of the Buffalo River, connecting the towns of Ponca and Erbie. Long before the establishment of America’s First National River and the rise of tourism in in the area, settlers of buffalo river country used these very same paths to transport their horses and wagons along the river. Walking along this trail, you can find remnants of these families' homesteads, all but completely reclaimed by the surrounding forest. It is truly awe-inspiring to witness these snippets of a bygone era and to imagine the hardships that were endured in this unforgiving part of the Ozarks. Horseback riders almost exclusively use the trail, but some hikers use it to connect an extensive network of other footpaths in the area (like the BRT, which intertwines throughout the length of the ORT). The ORT offers incredible views of Buffalo River Country. The up-close and personal scenes that you can usually only see while floating the river (in comparison, the ORT provides many more scenic opportunities than the BRT (which mostly keeps you tucked back in the forest, away from scenic vistas).

Fall and Winter tend to be the most popular times to tackle the Old River Trail. However, no matter the season, thoroughly planning your trip is a must if you want to have a successful and enjoyable experience. Starting your journey with torrential rain in the forecast could easily dampen your spirits and make the trail impassable. During the summer, the ORT becomes very overgrown, so be prepared to navigate through dense foliage and brush. Additionally, ticks, chiggers, and even mosquitos can be a nuisance and potentially pose health risks, so pack bug spray and wear appropriate clothing to protect yourself. One important factor to consider when planning your trip is the river crossings. There are twenty river crossings along the ORT, and they can become treacherous during the rainy Spring months or any season with heavy rainfall. Being aware of the weather conditions and checking river levels before starting your hike is crucial to ensure your safety and avoid any potential hazards. It's worth noting that the Old River Trail is a shared-use trail, meaning it is open to both equestrian and hiking activities. If you choose to explore the trail on foot, be mindful of horse droppings along the way!

During this year's peak autumn color display here in Ponca, I had the amazing opportunity to experience the Old River Trail as it was truly intended - by horseback! While I've hiked segments of the ORT numerous times before, either to reach breathtaking scenic spots or to connect with other stunning hiking trails in the area, I had never explored it from this unique perspective. What a treat it was to not only give my legs a much-needed break but to also witness the wonders of the Ponca wilderness from an entirely different vantage point, especially during this particularly beautiful fall color year.